Changing Clutch E36 318is

Having never changed a clutch am eager to try my hand at this but I'm reading mixed reviews on line. No problem with tools or lift/pit just don't want to get out of my depth. I'm reasonably competent and there are loads of guides on line. Would just be swapping for a standard bogger clutch again. Release bearing going on mine starting to get very noisey. Car passed the Nct today ironically. How much time/knuckles would I have to invest? Should I even bother trying. Need to man up and stop pussying out of the hard jobs lol


Sent forward in time from my Nokia 3210

I'd be interested in this as well.

There is a very good guide with pics on pelican parts web site try Google.

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http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_Replace.htm

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That's the one I have my eye on and i have several other guides also.

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Originally Posted by Lucifer

That's the one I have my eye on and i have several other guides also.

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Do you have the Bentley?

What we need is one of the professional mechanics on here to answer this thread

If you're doing it from underneath you'll have to drop the exhaust from the manifold back, heat shield and drive shaft and take out the slave cylinder. The gearbox mounts and the support for the mounts can be disconnected but you will need to support the engine from pivoting backwards, It cant go too far with the front brace in place.
The gearbox is held on with a ring of torx head bolts which are threaded into the block except for two that go through the starter motor and have nuts on the end. I think there is also one going from the opposite direction under the exhaust manifold which holds the cover plate to the gearbox.

While the gearbox was down you could also replace the crankshaft end seal and gasket and the input, output and selector seals on the gearbox.
I would also say to change item 6 & 7 in this diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/f/14.png

They only cost about €5 for both and I've broken the plastic pin before with an over aggressive gear change so worth definitely worth doing. There is a fair amount of work involved in the process but most is relatively straight forward. There is always the possibility for shearing and stripping bolts which would consume the most time but other than that if you have the facilities go for it

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

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Originally Posted by Venom

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

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it is easier to remove it fully, then just drop front side.
prepare your self with long extentions for your rachet for top bilts as they are hard to get.
what about engine tilt, i didnt notised, but maybe my mounts was good, and it didnt tilt to much at all.
when puting all back toghether, pay double attention on the part nr5 and nr7 in above picture, as they can go in a bit wrong and youl have no clutch at all and box will have to come off again to readjust them parts

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Originally Posted by armando

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Originally Posted by Venom

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

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it is easier to remove it fully, then just drop front side.
prepare your self with long extentions for your rachet for top bilts as they are hard to get.
what about engine tilt, i didnt notised, but maybe my mounts was good, and it didnt tilt to much at all.
when puting all back toghether, pay double attention on the part nr5 and nr7 in above picture, as they can go in a bit wrong and youl have no clutch at all and box will have to come off again to readjust them parts

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I never changed the clutch as it was a car I was breaking. So I got as far as taking off the prop, removed the gearbox mounts etc.

Anyone have any info on going the rest of the distance?

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Originally Posted by Venom

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Originally Posted by armando

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Venom

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

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it is easier to remove it fully, then just drop front side.
prepare your self with long extentions for your rachet for top bilts as they are hard to get.
what about engine tilt, i didnt notised, but maybe my mounts was good, and it didnt tilt to much at all.
when puting all back toghether, pay double attention on the part nr5 and nr7 in above picture, as they can go in a bit wrong and youl have no clutch at all and box will have to come off again to readjust them parts

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I never changed the clutch as it was a car I was breaking. So I got as far as taking off the prop, removed the gearbox mounts etc.

Anyone have any info on going the rest of the distance?

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what ya mean?

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Originally Posted by armando

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Venom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by armando

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Venom

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

---

it is easier to remove it fully, then just drop front side.
prepare your self with long extentions for your rachet for top bilts as they are hard to get.
what about engine tilt, i didnt notised, but maybe my mounts was good, and it didnt tilt to much at all.
when puting all back toghether, pay double attention on the part nr5 and nr7 in above picture, as they can go in a bit wrong and youl have no clutch at all and box will have to come off again to readjust them parts

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I never changed the clutch as it was a car I was breaking. So I got as far as taking off the prop, removed the gearbox mounts etc.

Anyone have any info on going the rest of the distance?

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what ya mean?

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All that has been described it removing the box etc. What about opening it up and replacing the actual clutch? Sorry if I'm not being clear.

Read the pelican parts link above. It's one of the best on the web IMO :)


Sent forward in time from my Nokia 3210

Anyone want to recommend a clutch?
Id say the 140€ sachs one on micks Garage is a safe bet?
Much point to a sports/lightened fly wheel or would you appreciate it on the M44?

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Originally Posted by Lucifer

Anyone want to recommend a clutch?
Id say the 140€ sachs one on micks Garage is a safe bet?
Much point to a sports/lightened fly wheel or would you appreciate it on the M44?

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Contact jryaners

Meant to be a lot of point. :wink:

I'm running a Valeo solid flywheel and clutch kit at the moment and would definitely recommend it.
There's no additional vibration and its a direct replacement so no need to source a different started or release bearing and is also a few kg lighter than standard.
The one flaw in mine at least is that the point to lock the flywheel for timing the engine is out by about 60 degrees from where it should be.
I find it nice for daily driving but it does take a bit of getting used to

If you supply the beer ands shit I may see about gettin a few lads up and we'll boss it for ya :D I'll say it now though, bags not doing the starter motor ;)

The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel by 6 multi pt bolts, they are handy enough to get off. The flywheel bolts on the other hand can be a bit of a pain without an impact wrench, there are four of them (17's I think).

I would recommend you invest in a cheap clutch alignment tool for fitting it up again. They are about 20 euro from a motor factors but will save a world of ball ache...

if you have someone with a strong hand agus a spanner on the crank nut there grand. There's 8 on the flywheel itself and there 18's I think :)

Sound for the offer Jason :) I'm working on securing an assistant lol. I had to take some time off work cos misery guts wouldn't let me carry it to next year so have a week to do it. I've decided to just go with the Sachs bogger standard and not upgrade anything.

I was actually thinking of getting the starter reconditioned? Seems to make sense but I hear it's a load of bollocks to get out?

Sound for saying about the clutch alignment tool. I will have an impact wrench, breaker bar and torch on standby don't worry!


Sent forward in time from my Nokia 3210

Starter will have to come off anyway sir.. If your going to the trouble I would defo go solid. Even if you dont go lightned e30 stuff go valeo's kit

Starter is the pain in the hoop here due to access. Choices are limited. Either take the manifold off for more access or just whip out the battery, battery tray, dipstick and then the HCV (the easy way). All will pop off with out much fuss. Then it's flying blind as you'll have to feel what you're doing more than see.

If I was doing it again I'd have a telescopic mirror and also a socket or spanners with an adjustable knuckle to get the angle and prevent slipping when trying to undo/tighten it.