Changing Clutch E36 318is

[Lucifer]

Having never changed a clutch am eager to try my hand at this but I'm reading mixed reviews on line. No problem with tools or lift/pit just don't want to get out of my depth. I'm reasonably competent and there are loads of guides on line. Would just be swapping for a standard bogger clutch again. Release bearing going on mine starting to get very noisey. Car passed the Nct today ironically. How much time/knuckles would I have to invest? Should I even bother trying. Need to man up and stop pussying out of the hard jobs lol


Sent forward in time from my Nokia 3210

[Venom]

I'd be interested in this as well.

[hamish262001]

There is a very good guide with pics on pelican parts web site try Google.

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[hamish262001]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_Replace.htm

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[Lucifer]

That's the one I have my eye on and i have several other guides also.

[Venom]

That's the one I have my eye on and i have several other guides also.

Do you have the Bentley?

What we need is one of the professional mechanics on here to answer this thread

[EndaC]

If you're doing it from underneath you'll have to drop the exhaust from the manifold back, heat shield and drive shaft and take out the slave cylinder. The gearbox mounts and the support for the mounts can be disconnected but you will need to support the engine from pivoting backwards, It cant go too far with the front brace in place.
The gearbox is held on with a ring of torx head bolts which are threaded into the block except for two that go through the starter motor and have nuts on the end. I think there is also one going from the opposite direction under the exhaust manifold which holds the cover plate to the gearbox.

While the gearbox was down you could also replace the crankshaft end seal and gasket and the input, output and selector seals on the gearbox.
I would also say to change item 6 & 7 in this diagram



They only cost about €5 for both and I've broken the plastic pin before with an over aggressive gear change so worth definitely worth doing. There is a fair amount of work involved in the process but most is relatively straight forward. There is always the possibility for shearing and stripping bolts which would consume the most time but other than that if you have the facilities go for it

[Venom]

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

[armando]

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

it is easier to remove it fully, then just drop front side.
prepare your self with long extentions for your rachet for top bilts as they are hard to get.
what about engine tilt, i didnt notised, but maybe my mounts was good, and it didnt tilt to much at all.
when puting all back toghether, pay double attention on the part nr5 and nr7 in above picture, as they can go in a bit wrong and youl have no clutch at all and box will have to come off again to readjust them parts

[Venom]

Thanks Enda.

Having done what you mention before I'd agree on the engine tilt issue. Also may I ask what way you undid the prop? Is there a need to remove it fully or did you drop it off the front and just split it?

it is easier to remove it fully, then just drop front side.
prepare your self with long extentions for your rachet for top bilts as they are hard to get.
what about engine tilt, i didnt notised, but maybe my mounts was good, and it didnt tilt to much at all.
when puting all back toghether, pay double attention on the part nr5 and nr7 in above picture, as they can go in a bit wrong and youl have no clutch at all and box will have to come off again to readjust them parts

I never changed the clutch as it was a car I was breaking. So I got as far as taking off the prop, removed the gearbox mounts etc.

Anyone have any info on going the rest of the distance?