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Thread: Gear box rebuild advice

  1. #21
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    Final quote in from Cork Gear Box Centre for €2k including Vat and 12 month warranty. Full rebuild including torque converter etc

    Ironically the price I paid for the car!

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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philip M5 View Post
    Nothing at all! Changing gears no problem with no judders or any tell tale signs of gearbox trouble. Previous owner had changed oil and filter in Jan but taking that with a pinch of salt as no paperwork for it.

    I have drove it for 8k and no issues. Waiting to get it on tow truck to mechanic and check gearbox oil filter and see if any metal in the bottom.

    It's like the pressure is lost in the box after it is running for few minutes. I suspect oil level is low but no leaks under the car. I checked diagnostics and ran solenoid tests which all came back fine.





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    I wonder if it could be something relatively easy to fix rather than a total gearbox failure. Hope it gets sorted soon anyway.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philip M5 View Post
    Final quote in from Cork Gear Box Centre for €2k including Vat and 12 month warranty. Full rebuild including torque converter etc

    Ironically the price I paid for the car!
    Are those prices just for the rebuild and not R&R (remove & refit) of the box itself ?

    In one way, it'll be futureproofing the car too - you'll still sell it for €2k+ in a couple of years....
    Current Daily: 2008 Lexus GS300 Sport F/L
    Current: E39 525i M Sport (Titan Silver)
    Previous: E34 520i SE (Orient Blue)

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big H View Post
    Are those prices just for the rebuild and not R&R (remove & refit) of the box itself ?

    In one way, it'll be futureproofing the car too - you'll still sell it for €2k+ in a couple of years....
    Thats for removing/fitting etc all in.

    Drop car off and ready in 5 days

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  5. #25
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    I think you'd be nuts not to try topping up the fluid for the sake of 30 mins and a few euro - the original job done by the PO may have been lacklustre
    E60 LCI 530i | E92 335i - Sold | E39 530i Sport - Sold | E30 318iS - Sold | E39 530d Sport - Sold | E30 318iS - Sold

  6. #26
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    I have heard of these GM 360/390 R boxes occasionally loosing pressure as the fluid get's warm. I remember coming across it whilst researching the fluid changes. As a precaution I changed my main pressure regulator (the common denominator in terms of fixing) on the valve body whilst I had the pan and filter off. you also have to loosen (emphasis) on loosen! SOME of the retaining bolts of the valve body down from the underside of the transmission, so the regulator clears the tranny casing. I remember there were two bolts that couldn't be touched (but had the same bolt head design) if you inadvertently undo those, you could have a valve body separate and end up chasing ball bearings and check valves around the floor. So my post is to say that the regulators can fail, it is often associated with temperature build but to be careful installing a replacement regulator.
    I used to have a printed copy of the rebuild manual for these, I'll try dig it out and scan the relevant page.
    There are resistance checks that can be done on the regulators at different temperatures with a tolerance of +/-15%, the regulator cost me around €60 if I recall correctly. At work now, but will search for the manual when I get a chance.

  7. #27
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    Scan of manual page that details the spec in terms of ohm readings @certain temps for the pressure reg.
    Another check before you drop the pan and filter is to put a hydraulic gauge on the pressure test port of the gearbox. it's just below and immediately forward of the oil cooler ports.
    In P N D M4, M3, and M2 you should be developing between 48 and 180 psi, if your on the fringes of 48psi, the box is shot. in reverse the box should develop 60 to 230 psi.
    if the box could engage reverse soundly before failure, i'd be looking at the fluid levels and regulator, if it had difficulty with reverse and you find readings on the fringe of the drive specs, the pump is probably shot and if rebuilding that, the clutches are as well done during the rebuild.

    Note the two screws described above that shouldn't be undone to get the PR into place by dropping the valve bank, they are detailed in the scan attached.

    Sorry took a while to find my manual and sheets - hope you get sorted and continue the E39 strength of population!
    Joe
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by 318is-joe; 18-05-19 at 20:09.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 318is-joe View Post
    Scan of manual page that details the spec in terms of ohm readings @certain temps for the pressure reg.
    Another check before you drop the pan and filter is to put a hydraulic gauge on the pressure test port of the gearbox. it's just below and immediately forward of the oil cooler ports.
    In P N D M4, M3, and M2 you should be developing between 48 and 180 psi, if your on the fringes of 48psi, the box is shot. in reverse the box should develop 60 to 230 psi.
    if the box could engage reverse soundly before failure, i'd be looking at the fluid levels and regulator, if it had difficulty with reverse and you find readings on the fringe of the drive specs, the pump is probably shot and if rebuilding that, the clutches are as well done during the rebuild.

    Note the two screws described above that shouldn't be undone to get the PR into place by dropping the valve bank, they are detailed in the scan attached.

    Sorry took a while to find my manual and sheets - hope you get sorted and continue the E39 strength of population!
    Joe
    Thank you very much Joe for your help and PDF!

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  9. #29
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    No worries Philip, hope it helps and you get sorted soon!

  10. #30
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    had few cars with box repairs, and 99% of these boxes , once they stop going, its full,and only full rebuild ,I mean E39 and early X5 .and with that mileage this is no chances for other small failures
    Motor Confidence-14b Knockmitten lane,Western ind est ,Naas road D12

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