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Thread: First DA polisher

  1. #1

    First DA polisher

    Ive always been big into detailing my car, its usually washed 3 times a week or 2 at least, snow foam and rinse followed by 2 bucket method using lambs wool mit then microfiber towel dry, my wheels are iron x'd then washed with wheel woolies, I top up my wax (autoglym hd) every 2 weeks and then every 3 months the car is stripped clayed then sealed again,
    But like a lot of people ive never owned a da polisher, been a bit afraid I suppose but ive taken the plunge as the ocd in me has never really been happy with not being able to remove full, swirl marks left by the previous owner, I ordered a package from chemical guys which you will see in the photo below.
    I would be greatfull for any advice from members

    Thanks molloye92

    Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk 4

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    22

    RE: First DA polisher

    What type of polisher is that?

    I like the Porter Cable 7424 DA polisher as its super easy to use and wont burn through paint at all.

  3. #3

    RE: First DA polisher

    what type of advice you after

  4. #4

    RE: First DA polisher

    Look up the junkman on youtube
    He has an hour long video on paint correction for beginners.
    He covers everything you need to know

  5. #5
    Administrator
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Swords, Dublin
    Posts
    3,189

    RE: First DA polisher

    Niall,

    Dont know how I missed this.....sorry!

    Charge the pad with polish...and then each time after that a few small spots on the pad
    Work in small sections, its easy to get carried away and the area you are working slowly gets bigger and bigger as you overlap more and more....use tape to mask off areas.
    When you apply 3 or 4 slightly bigger than pea sized blobs on the pad, dab the pad around the area you plan to polish - should work in small areas approx 18" x 18" is ideal. Spread the polish around the area with the pad, without turning it on.
    At the lowest speed, make two passes of the area - this spreads the polish.
    Up the speed a bit, setting 2, and make two more passes - this warms the panel and polish
    Up the speed again. setting 3 to 4 depending, make a few passes with reasonable pressure...will depend on the polish as to how long you can work it for...when it turns to a clear oily appearance, its worked in well, but doesnt necessarily mean it cant be used further.
    Reduce the speed down a bit, setting 2, and make one or two passes, with slightly less pressure. Buff off the polish and inspect your work. Repeat if necessary.

    Remember to try keep the pad flat to the paint at all times. Not only does having all of the pad in contact with the paint at all times mean, its doing the most work it can, but it also means that weight is evenly distributed. Uneven weight distribution will result in holograms; obviously, sometimes this is unavoidable, but in those instances, keep the pad parallel with the surface.

    Always start with the least aggressive pad - polish combo and work your way up to the combo that is working best for what you are trying to achieve. Obviously if you are doing correction, you dont have to start with a refining pad and polish, but start somewhere with a medium combo and work up. Dont jump in at the most aggressive combo. The less amount of paint removed the better...may take a bit longer, but at least you wont have polished away the clear coat, meaning you will be able to correct it several times, as opposed to once or twice!

    Its a matter of practise and getting used to what each pad & polish combo is capable of doing. Rememer that 100% correciton is never achieveable and dont go chasing it or you'll be left with no paint. And also, its the light swirls 85% of the defects in the paintwork that give it the dull appearance...one or two light passes will remove this and the car will look much better for it - sometimes you are wasting your time trying to get better!

    Hope this helps a bit and if you have any other questions, dont hesitate to ask!
    Dave

  6. #6

    RE: First DA polisher

    Quote Originally Posted by Curran
    Niall,

    Dont know how I missed this.....sorry!

    Charge the pad with polish...and then each time after that a few small spots on the pad
    Work in small sections, its easy to get carried away and the area you are working slowly gets bigger and bigger as you overlap more and more....use tape to mask off areas.
    When you apply 3 or 4 slightly bigger than pea sized blobs on the pad, dab the pad around the area you plan to polish - should work in small areas approx 18" x 18" is ideal. Spread the polish around the area with the pad, without turning it on.
    At the lowest speed, make two passes of the area - this spreads the polish.
    Up the speed a bit, setting 2, and make two more passes - this warms the panel and polish
    Up the speed again. setting 3 to 4 depending, make a few passes with reasonable pressure...will depend on the polish as to how long you can work it for...when it turns to a clear oily appearance, its worked in well, but doesnt necessarily mean it cant be used further.
    Reduce the speed down a bit, setting 2, and make one or two passes, with slightly less pressure. Buff off the polish and inspect your work. Repeat if necessary.

    Remember to try keep the pad flat to the paint at all times. Not only does having all of the pad in contact with the paint at all times mean, its doing the most work it can, but it also means that weight is evenly distributed. Uneven weight distribution will result in holograms; obviously, sometimes this is unavoidable, but in those instances, keep the pad parallel with the surface.

    Always start with the least aggressive pad - polish combo and work your way up to the combo that is working best for what you are trying to achieve. Obviously if you are doing correction, you dont have to start with a refining pad and polish, but start somewhere with a medium combo and work up. Dont jump in at the most aggressive combo. The less amount of paint removed the better...may take a bit longer, but at least you wont have polished away the clear coat, meaning you will be able to correct it several times, as opposed to once or twice!

    Its a matter of practise and getting used to what each pad & polish combo is capable of doing. Rememer that 100% correciton is never achieveable and dont go chasing it or you'll be left with no paint. And also, its the light swirls 85% of the defects in the paintwork that give it the dull appearance...one or two light passes will remove this and the car will look much better for it - sometimes you are wasting your time trying to get better!

    Hope this helps a bit and if you have any other questions, dont hesitate to ask!
    Dave
    Great I think youve coverd everthing there thank you very much
    Current:
    2011 e92 320d m sport

    Previous:
    2008 e60 530d m sport
    2006 e60 523i m sport
    2004 x5 3.0d sport
    2003 e46 m3
    2000 e46 325i m sport

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